Dang, that is ORANGE.

I usually have the best luck avoiding “number bubbles” by using paint formulated for airbrush. It’s much thinner so coats beautifully.

My youngest works at a Lego store. This is now hanging in their break room.

For when that Hulk absolutely needs every last bullet in your gun ASAP.

I always hated “Error: No Error Has Occurred”

Mainly because it had no button to close or acknowledge, so you had to reset your machine.

Truly brilliant.

Wrecking Ball. It can be sun in anger quite well.

Stigmata by Ministry. Very angry.

Nicely done, just the same.

This happened to me on my honeymoon. I explained to my spouse that we could shop in Montréal without issue by looking bored as we put our shopping on the counter while mumbling “Bonjour,” paying the amount displayed (this was… some time ago), them take our bag while mumbling “Merci.”

It worked for a few hours, until someone asked about my shirt.

There are days when being good at your job is a veritable super power.

Continue to crush it.

The targeting is akin to the Spear, but much faster. It will not target other Helldivers, so it’s great for helping a swarmed teammate. In “First Person” mode, it has a Holographic sight that turns green when locked on.

It is stopped by minor things like chain fences and shrubs, but you can turn off guidance. When guidance is off, it has iron sights.

It does less damage• but has more rounds per magazine than the Verdict.

•80 vs 125, but it also does Stun and can stop calls for reinforcements .

Nowadays, I just have ‘moody cats’.

I have a stainless steel bottle, 40oz. I have never seen what you are asking.

I would have also accepted “For Democracy”

Nearly every “bug in the city” mission I’ve done has a SAM Site as a secondary objective.

Why?

I made some from several old towels layered and attached to plywood.

Unsure, but I found this on their site: “SiliNOT! Non-Toxic is produced with food safe ingredients. Food-Contact Safe only applies when SiliNOT! Non-Toxic has been used exclusively with food safe casting material. Keep out of reach of children when heated. May contain food allergens. Contains citrus ingredients.”

Siraya tech has a line of resins that have similar properties. I have simply had limited luck with this (could be my cleaning/curing process, idk).

I found this stuff for a fool-proof solution.

“Platinum cure silicone” is often the default mold material. It is durable, elastic, and mixes easily (usually a 1:1 ratio by volume).

An issue ue with it, however, is that it interacts poorly with dice masters printed from liquid resin (SLA printers) and will have trouble curing when it contacts the part. This leaves a gummy mess and ruined mold (not to mention a waste of money).

The remedy is to let the photoinitiators still left on the resin to break down. This can take anywhere from 1 - 2 months. As I am impatient, I tried the material in this post. With this mold, I can cast a part from epoxy resin and use that for making a standard mold.

I have had mis-fits on molds before, but cap molds will more often have raised face issues (cap did not seat all the way on).

There is a style of mold, often referred to as “sprue mold” that are single piece molds where you pour into the corner.

That was a test die that I colored with markers.

Cap molds are a literal two-part process. The “bottom” is cast upside-down, as you adhere the dice to the base and pour the molding material over them.

For the “top” mold, remove the bottom piece from its mold form; flip it over; either cut out or remove your keys (voids that will fill in as part of the top mold, allowing for perfect alignment); coat with a mold release (I used petroleum jelly for this one, but will often use corn starch); put into your mold form; and pour your molding medium.